Benefits of ANUPAM Feeds

01. Rabbits prefer to feed that is sweet and contain an intake of molasses. Feed Mesh of ANUPAM are characterized by the high quality of feed in Mesh Form which contain natural materials mixed in a homogenous manner, since rabbits prefer powder feed to pellet feed when given the choice.
02. Feed pellets do not give the rabbit the freedom to select types at the expense over other types as in the case of mixtures of grains which effectively contributes to satisfy the following nutritional needs:

Protein: that is necessary for bodybuilding, growth and production and one of its sources (Pulses).

Carbohydrates and Fibers:  The carbohydrates are the main source of energy in the feed grains (corn, barley and etc). Also, fibers are very important which is available mainly in grains to improve the digestion efficiency.

Fat: which provide the body with energy especially the mothers, during the first period of lactation as well as the periods of fattening during the final stages.

Vitamins and Mineral Premixes: vitamins are important elements that play a key role especially for the lactating mother, pregnant female rabbits and increase of fertility of males as well as regulating the vital processes of the body.  They are added if necessary in predetermined quantities, the most important vitamins are (A, D, H, K, and C). Mineral salts are (calcium, phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, iodine) in addition to the sodium chloride, which is very important to increase the productive efficiency of growth and formation of bones.  They play a major role in the assimilation of feed, increase the resistance of rabbits to stress & temperature changes, & diseases and this is what HAF provided in its feed.
For rabbits to stay healthy and keep it high productivity, they need enough amounts of mineral salts and little amounts of vitamins. All these ingredients are available in ANUPAM RABBIT FEED MESH, they are important for a healthy bodily functions. When rabbits decrease their consumption of these feeds, they show illness symptoms. The aim of taking these feeds is to avoid symptoms of the lack of these ingredients.

Calcium and Magnesium:
Calcium is the major component of bones, together with phosphorus in the proportion 1:2. Calcium is of the major biological factors in muscle movements in its three types; corporal, cardiac or pliable. It is also important in neurological cells and in transferring the neurological messages. It also helps the Magnesium in issuing the neurological signals. So, the balance between Calcium and Magnesium levels is very important to   maintain the efficiency of the neurological and muscle signals.
The major store for Magnesium in the body is the bones. It plays a vital role in food assimilation.. as for phosphorus, most of it (80%)can be found united with Calcium in the bones. It plays a vital role in transferring energy. Vitamin D participates in preserving the levels of Calcium and Magnesium in the body. The average of this mineral being absorbed by the intestinal canals depends on vitamin D.
The rabbits need of Calcium and Magnesium during their growing stages are greater than those of the fully grown rabbit. The Calcium and Phosphorus are added to the bones of growing rabbits when the level of those two minerals in their blood is high enough. The needs of a lactating rabbit are even higher than those of a growing rabbit.

Nutritional Needs:
Nutritional needs of rabbits depend on age, weight and the productive state of that rabbit. Therefore, when preparing a rabbit feed, the age, weight and productive state should be known:

1- Keeper Needs:
These are the energy and protein needs of a rabbit in state of total rest and not performing any effort. keeper’s needs depend on their weight; for a 3kg rabbit, the protein needs are 14 gm of digested protein.

2-Growth Needs:
These are the energy and protein needs of a rabbit during the growth period. It increases with growth and weight increase. At the age of 3 months, for example, the rabbit weight is three times its weaning date weight. The needs for protein depend on age and the type of protein and necessary amino acids available in the feed pallets. As for fiber, it should not be less than 12%.

3-Pregnancy needs:
These needs increase gradually during the period of pregnancy, so that the mother may not get fat. Pregnant rabbits are offered a high energy pellet with special protein and amino acids ingredients.

4-Lactation Needs:
The nutritional needs of a lactating rabbit increases gradually in its energy and protein contents to cover its special needs.

5-Male Needs:
Males need around 1.5-1 of a keeper need from energy and protein.

ANUPAM Standard Rabbit Feed Mash

01. Pregnant  Rabbits: (around 30-31days)
(R-0318) feed amount around 180-200 gm/day

02. Lactating Rabbits:
(R-0919) feed amount around:
Week one = 220-250 gm/day
Week two + three = 250gm/day
Week four = 350-450 gm/day

03. Fattening Stage One: (age 1month-2months)
(R-0218) feed amount around 100-120 gm/day

04. Fattening Stage Two : (age 2months-2.5months)
(R-0716) feed amount around 120-150 gm/day

Feed Changing Method:
Since rabbits are very sensitive to feed change, it is important to move from one type of pellet to another gradually. Sudden change is very harmful; it may lead to digestive problems and diarrhea.
The best method is to start the new pellet in little amounts increased gradually on the expense of the old pellet, until change is complete within a week when the new pellet is introduced in full.

The connection between heat and humidity and its effect on rabbit nutrition:
When rabbits are subjected to high temperature, it tries to use different ways to overcome as much as possible the added temperature (like rapid breathing and laying flat on the cage floors). If it does not succeed, a chain of changes take place in the behavior and physiology of the rabbit. These include less feed consumption, low food transformation, imbalance in food assimilation in blood. When the temperature rises above 35 degrees centigrade, the rabbit cannot manage to regulate its body temperature, and a number of biological changes take place as a result of heat stress.
The temperature of the animal environment is closely related to relative humidity. Humidity is considered more important, as the effect of heat increases with high humidity level. From all the above, it is clear now, that an animal’s biological functions are affected by heat and relative humidity, and this ultimately affects the productivity of the animal.

Hay is a good source of fiber, some minerals and some energy (calories). For house rabbits, hay is generally used as a low calorie source of fiber. Rabbits are grazers and browsers; in the wild they eat small meals throughout the day. Feeding hay allows a bunny to graze as she would in the wild without gaining weight as grazing on high calorie foods like pellets. The digestive tract of rabbits evolved to process large amounts of high fiber foods very quickly. Feeding too little high fiber food causes digestive (gastro-intestinal) tract problems. Many of these problems can be avoided or minimized by providing free choice grass hay.

The crucial thing to remember about storing hay is making sure it is kept dry. Wet hay stored in an airtight container can ferment or become moldy. Moldy hay tastes bad and certain molds can produce toxins that can be fatal. Eighteen to twenty-two gallon containers are the perfect size to store about 1/3 of a 40-60 pound bale ¹. When storing hay in an airtight container the hay must be absolutely dry. If you are bringing hay into the house on a rainy or very humid day, leave it opened so that the excess moisture can evaporate before you store it. Hay can also be stored outdoors in a shed or garage. In these cases, wooden pallets can be used to keep bales off concrete floors and allow some air circulation. A plastic sheet, loosely covering the bale will keep dust and sunlight away. Exposure to sunlight will destroy some vitamins in the hay, so it is best to store hay out of the list.

Rabbits should have hay available at all times. Most rabbits will selectively graze through a pile of hay, picking out the tastier bits. Offering smaller amounts of hay regularly (2 or 3 times a day) rather than large amounts of hay occasionally (daily or less) encourages a bunny to eat more of the hay that is offered.

Feeding hay is inherently messy, but there are some ways to minimize the amount of hay that escapes. Offering hay in a solid rack that hooks onto the outside of a cage is one good way. Litterboxes are great places to offer hay. The box keeps the hay contained and also reinforces good litterbox habits. Bunnies spend a lot of time in their litterbox, and enjoy munching hay while there. They avoid the soiled hay and will eat the good stuff. Hay should be added or replaced frequently.

Grass hay is the preferred hay for bunnies, mostly because the protein² and calcium levels are low. The fiber level of grass hay depends on how old the plant was when it was harvested. Younger plants have less fiber than older plants. There are a number of different kinds of grass hays that are readily available for rabbits, including Timothy, Brome, Oat, and Orchard Grass. Any of these hays can be fed to bunnies.

Legume hay is high in protein, calcium and energy (calories). In most instances it should be fed in limited amounts. Rabbits who are not receiving pellets can be fed alfalfa hay mixed with grass hay daily, increasing the protein and energy level of the diet.

Feeding a hay cut from a field of mixed grasses, or feeding a mixture of different hays, can never hurt. Different grasses have different levels of minerals so feeding a mixture of hays may reduce the risk of mineral deficiency. This is less important for rabbits who are receiving pellets as part of their diet, as pellets provide a balanced source of minerals. Also, rabbits seem to enjoy foraging through a variety of hays.

Choosing Good Quality hay for Rabbits

Good hay is:

• green
• sweet smelling
• low in dust
• appetizing to look at, even to humans

When choosing hay remember that the more mature a plant is when it is cut the more fiber the hay will have. Hays made from young plants are soft and appetizing to rabbits, but are too low in fiber³ to be fed as the only or the primary hay in a rabbit’s diet. Grasses cut at mid-maturity make a hay that is well balanced for our rabbits. Timothy cut at this stage will have seed heads 1-3 inches long. Talk to your supplier about the particular hay you are buying. If you are buying from a local farmer, it is likely they have not had analysis done on the hay. However, they can tell you a lot of information about the hay. If you are buying from a distributor or broker, then ask for a nutritional analysis of the hay.

Rabbits can be extremely picky eaters, and often do not enjoy their human’s attempts to expand their diet. Limiting pellets will encourage nibbling and tasting hay. Also, make hay fun, put it in baskets, in tubes, in boxes or in brown paper bags; as bunny plays in the hay, she will nibble bits of it. Offer small handfuls and change daily. Bunnies know when hay has been out and will often ignore it if it has been around for too long. A handful of hay in the litterbox often encourages nibbling. Many rabbits turn their noses up at the hay sold in small packages in the pet stores. Switching to a better hay, either from a local grower or one of the online companies, usually solves the problem.

Do not give up, bunnies are stubborn and make take months to decide hay is Good Food. If your bunny likes a particular type or cut of hay, it is a good idea to gradually introduce other cuts or types. There have been instances where brokers have run out of a certain cut of hay, and annoyed bunnies have thrown tantrums and gone on hunger strikes to protest this. Having a bunny who likes multiple hays prevents market forces from interfering with her health.

In conclusion

Hay is the most important thing you can feed your rabbit. Feeding a variety of hays promotes balanced nutrition and minimizes hunger strikes from picky bunnies. Bunnies should be offered a high fiber (>25% crude fiber) grass hay free choice. Lower fiber grass hays and legume hays can be used as supplements for variety, particularly for rabbits who are on a no pellet diet.

Young rabbits (8 weeks to 8 months of age) are rapidly growing and require diets high in energy, minerals and protein to support that growth. Young rabbits should be fed a diet of unlimited pellets and unlimited hay. After about 12 weeks of age, fresh vegetables can be introduced. Any treats should consist of fresh vegetables or herbs. Young bunnies can be fed a handful of alfalfa hay daily in addition to unlimited grass hay.

Teenage rabbits

“Teenage” rabbits (8 months to 1 year) are still growing, although not as rapidly as when they were younger. Pellets can be decreased to about a 1/2 cup per 6 pounds of body weight. Continue feeding unlimited grass hay and slowly increase the amount of vegetables in the diet. Fruit can be introduced as a treat but in limited quantities, such as 1 to 2 ounces per 6 pounds of body weight.

Adult rabbits

Adult rabbits (older than 1 year) need sufficient calories to maintain energy levels and body weight, and sufficient vitamins and minerals to maintain proper body functions. Their caloric needs are less than when they were growing, so pellets and high-calorie foods should be limited. Approximately 1/4 to 1/2 cup of high-fiber, low-fat pellets per 6 pounds of body weight, 2 to 3 cups of vegetables and unlimited hay should meet an adult rabbit’s dietary needs. A minimum of three different vegetables should be fed. Weight should be monitored; a rabbit that is losing weight, in the absence of any health problems, may simply need more calories in its diet. Increases in weight should be met with an increase in hay and a decrease in pellets. Older rabbits may have problems maintaining their weight and can be fed additional pellets and, in the absence of bladder sludge, alfalfa hay.

Special Cases

Angora and long-haired rabbits

Angora and other long-haired rabbits should receive 1/4 to 1/2 cup of high-fiber, low-fat pellets per 6 pounds of body weight, 2 to 3 cups of vegetables and unlimited hay. Because of their higher protein requirement, angoras can be fed small amounts of alfalfa hay if calcium intake is not a problem.

Ill rabbits

Ill rabbits have an increased caloric requirement as their body fights the infection or tries to heal from an injury. Sick bunnies will usually require more vitamins and minerals. In many cases, increasing the amount of pellets will supply these needs. Vitamin supplements may be required if a bunny cannot reach around to ingest its cecal pellets. Very ill bunnies may not willingly eat on their own and will need to be fed special foods from a syringe.

Overweight rabbits

Overweight bunnies need fewer calories. Pellets should be restricted to 1/8 to 1/4 cup per 6 pounds of body weight, or eliminated completely. Treats should be restricted to fresh herbs and vegetables. Grass hay should make up the bulk of an obese rabbit’s diet until sufficient weight loss has occurred. To add variety without extra calories, offer 2 to 3 cups of fresh greens per 6 pounds of body weight. Fruit and carrots should be fed in limited amounts, if at all, due to their high sugar content.

However, the diet recommended on these pages is not the same. Yes, it is high in fresh foods, but there is not nearly enough water in the foods to support a bunny. Rabbits should always have fresh water available. Water is critical to the health of the intestine and keeping the gut working to prevent ileus.

I prefer using bowls to bottles. In my experience rabbits drink more water when they are offered water in a bowl. Bowls take a little more work on the part of the caretaker, as they must be washed and cleaned much more frequently than bottles.

Many rabbits who are eating large amounts of vegetables will not drink very much. In most cases this is nothing to be concerned. If their drinking habits have changed, while there has been no change in their diet, then it is time to talk to a vet.

I know of a few cases where this has happened. Usually, it can be tracked to habit or boredom. Adding more frequent or different stimuli will normally distract bunny enough to decrease water intake. Excessive drinking can be a symptom of diabetes mellitus, but this typically is accompanied by excessive food intake and inability to maintain or gain weight.

In Conclusion

Rabbits should always be provided with fresh, clean water. In hot weather, ice water can help keep bunny cool. Water bowls seem to be easier for some rabbits to drink from, and they appear to prefer them to the typical water bottle.

1. Are important for bone structure (calcium, phosphorus, magnesium).
2. Bind oxygen and carry it through the blood stream (iron).
3. Act as antioxidants to prevent cellular damage (selenium).
4. I Help to release energy from foods and stores (iodine, cobalt, chromium).
5. Participate in blood pressure control (sodium, potassium)
6. Many plants concentrate minerals therefore there is not a big risk that rabbits fed a varied diet including lots of vegetables would develop deficiencies.
7. Pellets are a good source for minerals.

Source

Dangers

Excess minerals can be toxic, however, this should not be a concern with most minerals. The one exception is calcium. Rabbits metabolize calcium very differently from other animals. Rabbits absorb calcium from the intestine very efficiently (60-80% of ingested calcium is absorbed into the blood stream), and the major way for them to get rid of this calcium is through the urine. The calcium binds with other things in the urine and forms solids. In some rabbits the solids stay in the bladder and can cause problems, a condition known as bladder sludge. Some veterinarians will recommend removing calcium from the diet of bunnies with bladder sludge. In many cases, this has proven to be ineffective in controlling bladder sludge. Too little calcium may lead to bone loss. If calcium is strictly limited or eliminated from a rabbit’s diet, it may be a good idea to monitor bone density. There is a more in depth discussion of calcium on this site.

Feeding Considerations

Mature house rabbits and Angoras

Should receive all necessary minerals from a diet containing properly balanced pellets, vegetables and hay.

Growing rabbits

May need more minerals than mature rabbits, however, this need should be supplied by the daily allotment of nutritionally balanced pellets.

Sick rabbits

Rabbits who are being syringe fed for a long period of time should have pellets or a mineral supplement added into the daily feedings to meet the mineral requirement.

1. Are important to help release energy from food and energy stores
2. Act as hormones to regulate metabolism
3. Act as antioxidants to prevent cellular damage

Types

• Bunnies cannot make their own vitamins
• The structure of each vitamin is different, however, all are organic molecules found in trace amounts in bacteria or plants. They can be divided into two general groups.
• Water soluble vitamins (B-complex, C)
• Fat soluble vitamins (A, D, E, K)

Source

• The water soluble vitamins and vitamin K are synthesized by the cecal bacteria and obtained by coprophagy.
• Carotenes (plant pigments) are converted to Vitamin A in animal tissues.
• Pre-vitamin D is found in sun-dried alfalfa hay and can be synthesized by the skin after exposure to UV light.
• Vitamin E is found in vegetable oils and cereal grains.

Needs

• Rabbits do have an absolute requirement for all the vitamins except C.
• However, the vitamin K and the B-vitamins are provided by the cecal bacteria and therefore may not need further supplementation until the cecum is disturbed or the cecal pellets are not consumed.
• Rabbits receiving pellets as part of the diet should be receiving sufficient amounts of vitamins D, A, and E. For rabbits receiving no pellets, it is possible that D and E would become deficient after a long time (many years). Carrots, of course, are rich in vitamin A.

Dangers

• Extreme excesses of Vitamin C can cause kidney damage.
• Excess vitamin D can cause calcium deposits in tissues (joint, kidneys, etc.).
• Excess vitamin A causes neurological and skin damage.

Feeding Considerations

Mature house rabbits and Angoras

Normally should not need any vitamin supplements.

Older Rabbits

If they have difficulty re-ingesting cecal pellets, then B-vitamin supplements maybe appropriate.

Sick rabbits

May have the same B-vitamin requirement as older rabbits especially if the GI tract is disturbed or cecal pellets are not being eaten. Many people have reported appetite stimulation after injection with B-complex vitamins.

Growing rabbits

Liver stores and pellet sources of vitamins should be sufficient to support growth.

Protein is essential to make a bunny.

1. Proteins help make bone and muscle and fur, they also are responsible for turning food into energy.
2. Proteins are important for the proper functioning of the cecal bacteria

Types

Proteins are composed of amino acids. There are 20 common amino acids, some of which are synthesized by rabbits and others that are not. Those which bunnies cannot make are called essential amino acids. The diet provides a significant portion of these amino acids. However, the cecal bacteria can make the essential amino acids and thus the cecal pellets are also an excellent source of high quality protein for the rabbit. (And for you, but we don’t recommend eating your rabbit’s cecal pellets.)

Source (% of total food weight that is protein)

1. Grass hay: 8-15% protein
2. Alfalfa hay: 17-23% protein
3. Pellets: 13-20% protein
4. Grains: 10-18% protein
5. Cecal pellets: 25-38% protein
6. Short haired adult rabbits: 10-12% protein
7. Long haired adult rabbits: 13-15% protein

Needs (% daily calories that is protein)

Bacteria in the cecum can synthesize protein, and cecal pellets provide at least 10% of a rabbit’s amino acid needs. Rabbits that cannot eat cecal pellets and have an impaired appetite may need more protein than the average rabbit.

Dangers

1. Too much protein can put a strain on the kidneys, since they are responsible for excretion of excess nitrogen.
2. Excess protein can also cause overproduction of cecal pellets by overfeeding the cecal bacteria.

Feeding Considerations

Mature house rabbits

The daily pellet allotment along with freely available hay is probably sufficient protein.

Older rabbits

Some older rabbits have difficulty reaching around to ingest their cecal pellets. This decreases their daily intake of protein, and this should be considered when formulating diets for them.

Angoras and other long haired rabbits

Require more protein than short haired rabbits. This is because all that extra hair is protein and it takes lots of energy and protein to make it. Angoras will take protein from their own muscle tissue and use it to grow fur. The normal pellet ration and freely available hay are sufficient for most angoras. However, if a healthy rabbit with a normal appetite and is still losing weight you may want to consider increasing the protein in the diet. The simplest way to do this is to increase their daily allotment of pellets. If there is a reason the amount of pellets cannot be increased, then a small amount of high protein pellets (22-24% protein) can be mixed in with regular rabbit pellets. Another way to do this is to add alfalfa (or other legume hay) into the diet

Growing rabbits

Require more protein because they are still building bone and tissue. Increasing the pellet allotment should supply the extra protein they need. Supplementing the diet with alfalfa hay will increase the protein content.

Sick rabbits

Illness may cause a temporary increase in protein requirements, to support immune function. Sick rabbits who cannot consume their cecal pellets may also need extra dietary protein. Certain drugs, like steroids, will increase the bunny’s need for protein and the diet should be modified to compensate. Protein is important for fighting infections; bunnies with a fever will need extra protein and calories. Bunnies with tumors may also need more protein and calories. Diabetic rabbits have an increased need for protein. Pregnant and nursing rabbits also need more protein. The supplementary feedings listed in the syringe feeding section should contain sufficient amounts of protein. However, if a higher protein level is desired, then higher protein pellets can be used.

Carbohydrates provide energy for the rabbit.

Types

1. Simple sugars (a.k.a. monosaccharides): glucose, fructose (fruit sugar), corn syrup, high fructose corn syrup, dextrose
2. Complex sugars (a.k.a. polysaccharides): starch
3. Grains – Concentrated Starch
4. Pellets – Concentrated Starch
5. Fruit – Fructose

Source

Needs

Carbohydrates are the primary energy source in the rabbit’s diet. Therefore, the rabbit’s need for carbohydrate is dictated by their energy level. Rabbits with higher energy demands, such as nursing mothers, growing bunnies, rabbits with some types of cancer, and those on certain drugs, may require more carbohydrates in the diet. Spaying and neutering decreases the need for energy and intake should be modified accordingly.

Dangers

Too much starch or sugar can contribute to obesity because the rabbit will convert the excess energy to fat.
Enterotoxemia can be caused by too much carbohydrate in the diet. This is because the excess carbohydrate travels to the cecum where the extra energy can cause the wrong populations of bacteria to grow and produce toxins.

Feeding Considerations

Mature house rabbits

Smaller rabbits have a more rapid metabolism (their heart beats faster, they breathe faster, etc.) than larger bunnies. Therefore, on average a 2-pound dwarf will need more food per pound than a 10-pound lop. Also, dwarfs have a smaller cecum and cannot process food quite as efficiently as larger rabbits. Weight should be monitored closely; overweight bunnies should receive less while underweight bunnies can receive a higher proportion of carbohydrates in the diet. Specific diet recommendations can be found at Diet Recommendations.

Angoras and other long haired rabbits

These animals may need slightly more carbohydrates than the normal short haired rabbit. Growing those lovely coats of hair requires lots of energy and protein. Too little protein or energy and the rabbit will start to use its own muscle to make fur. However, weight should be monitored closely to prevent obesity due to too much energy.

Growing rabbits

Young, growing rabbits do have a high carbohydrate requirement, however, their cecal bacteria can be more sensitive to a high carbohydrate diet than that of more mature rabbits. Therefore, grain and a fruit intake should be closely monitored in young rabbits and caretakers should watch for enterotoxemia problems. Fiber has a protective function against enterotoxemia; therefore pellets do not have the enterotoxemia risk that whole grains do.

Sick rabbits

Sick rabbits have a higher energy requirement than do healthy rabbits. Energy is needed to support immune function and support a fever. It is very important that a sick rabbit be getting some nutritional support when the appetite is decreased. Rabbits who are not eating are at high risk for liver disease (hepatic lipidosis). HRS Educators have invented a number of different recipies useful for syringe feeding rabbits who for one reason or another cannot eat the normal diet.

1. Drives digesting food through the digestive tract (breaks digested food/feces into smaller masses)
2. Is the best source of energy for bacteria living in the cecum (eg. fiber isconverted into volatile fatty acids)
3. Protects against diet induced enterotoxemia (maintains the cecal bacteria balance)
4. Protects against GI stasis and helps prevent blockages due to hair
5. Adds water and bacterial bulk to the feces (makes defecation easier)
6. Helps retain water in the digestive tract.

Types

Fiber is composed of simple sugars (monosaccharides) that are linked in such a fashion that they are undigestible by the rabbit’s own enzymes. Some fiber can be degraded by bacteria in the cecum. Products of this are absorbed by the rabbit and provide about 30% of the rabbit’s daily energy need.

Source

1. The undigestible parts of plants (lignin, cell walls, etc.)
2. Hay, straw and branches all contain high percentages of fiber.
3. Fruits and vegetables contain some fiber, however because of their high water content they are not as good a source of fiber as hay.
4. Pellets also contribute fiber to the diet.

Needs

Because of the above reasons, bunnies should be allowed free access to all the hay they wish to eat.

Feeding Considerations

Mature house rabbits

Should receive fresh grass hay or straw on a free choice basis. Alfalfa and other legume hays are high in protein, calcium and energy, and should be avoided. However, some rabbits are very picky and alfalfa hay is better than no hay at all.

Angoras and other long haired rabbits

Same as for mature house rabbits especially when considering their potentially long hair length. Due to their increased protein requirements, the richer protein of a legume hay will not be harmful to angoras, however, the extra calcium may be a concern.

Growing rabbits

Because of their higher protein and energy requirements alfalfa hay can be given to growing rabbits. However, grass hays are also suitable for young, growing bunnies.

Sick rabbits

Hay is extremely important for sick rabbits. If a rabbit seems uninterested in grass hays, alfalfa hay is a reasonable alternative.

1. Fiber is probably the most critical element in the rabbit’s diet. Too little fiber and their intricate digestive system gets out of whack. This can cause serous illness or even death.
2. Carbohydrates are sugars that are mostly used for energy. Some carbohydrates are necessary in the diet, but too many carbohydrates will make bunny sick.
3. Protein is the primary building block of muscle, bone, hair, eyes, in short, protein is required to make a bunny. Lack of protein will make a bunny sick, but too much protein may damage kidneys.
4. Vitamins and minerals are important to make all the chemistry in a bunny work correctly.
5. Water is essential for the health of the intestines and, along with fiber helps maintain intestinal motility and prevent ileus.

Basic Rabbit Requirements

Specific requirements for different ages of bunnies have been determined in growing and breeding rabbits. These are close to what a houserabbit needs, and in the absence of any information about houserabbits specifically, it gives an estimation of requirements.

1. Young rabbits under one year are rapidly growing and require energy, vitamins, minerals and protein to support that growth.
2. Adult rabbits have a lower requirement for calories, vitamins, minerals and protein because they are no longer growing.
3. Breeding and lactating rabbits need to support their own requirements as well as those of their growing babies.
4. Angora and other long haired rabbits have similar needs to adult short haired bunnies.