Being from a high mountainous area, the Abyssinian Lovebird can tolerate an outdoor aviary environment as long as they are kept out of drafts and the temperatures are not overly extreme. They are relatively hardy birds, similar to the Fischer’s Lovebird or the Masked Lovebird, but not quite as hardy as the Peach-faced Lovebirds.

Typical of all the lovebirds, the Abyssinian Lovebird is very social and loves companionship. Their natural behavior is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis taranta

Lovesbirds, There are two subspecies of the Abyssinian Lovebird or Black-Winged Lovebird; Agapornis taranta tarana and Agapornis taranta nana. The latter species is a bit smaller and has a more intense coloration. It also has a smaller bill and shorter wings.

Distribution:
The Abyssinian Lovebird or Black-Winged Lovebird is native to mountainous areas and is adapted to cooler weather. From Africa, they are found in southern Eritrea and the southwestern highlands of Ethiopia.

Description:
The Abyssinian Lovebird has a general green plumage, though a shade lighter on the head, rump, just above the tail, and the underside.

They are sexually dimorphic lovebirds, meaning the male and female are clearly different in outward appearance. Males have bright red feathers on the forehead and narrowly circling the eye, they also have brown to black outer flight feathers, even as babies. The females head has no red and the wing feathers are green while babies, developing brownish black wing feathers like the males, as they mature.

Females are also a bit heavier, reaching about 1.9 oz (53 grams) while males can reach about 1.6 oz (44 grams).

Size – Weight:
The Abyssinian Lovebird is one of the largest lovebirds reaching up to 6 – 6 1/2″ (15 – 16.5 cm) in length, with the female being the larger of the pair. (Of the two subspecies, Agapornis a. nana is a bit smaller than Agapornis a. tarana)

Care and feeding:
A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about.

In the wild the Abyssinian Lovebird eats seeds, berries, and fruits with some favorites being the fruit of the sycamore fig as well as juniper berries. As a pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets. They do require a higher fat content in their diet than other lovebirds, which you can provided with additional sunflower seeds.

Social Behaviours:
In the wild the Abyssinian Lovebirds are seen in small flocks of 4 to 20 birds. They have been the least likely of the lovebirds to be attracted to people and areas of human habitation.

A lovebird is a very social bird with its companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting. The Abyssinian Lovebird has been found to be one of the most tolerant as long as there is plenty of space for all.

Activities:    Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

Breeding/Reproduction:

The Abyssinian Lovebird is a rather unpredictable breeder, with some pairs being quite prolific while others will go for years without mating. These birds will, however, only breed as single pairs. They cannot be bred in colonies. Though not as common in captivity as other lovebirds, there has been successful breeding as well as the development of some color mutations.

In the wild these birds nest in the holes of trees and inhabit the same year round for roosting. They are not avid nest builders, so when you provide them with a nest box be sure to put a thick layer of moist wood shavings on the bottom. The nest box will need to have inside dimensions of 10″ long x 6″ deep x 7″ high (25 x 15 1/2 x 18 cm).

The hen will lay three to six eggs which are incubated for about 24-26 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 3 to 3 /12 weeks but will still be dependent until about 4 weeks of age. When they become independent, it is best to remove the young to their own housing.

If you obtain a hand-raised Peach-faced Lovebird you will have an incredibly affectionate friend. It is a most playful, intelligent, and amusing little bird. This small parrot is also an excellent beginners bird; being relatively hardy, easy to care for, a willing breeder, and reasonably priced.

The Peach-faced Lovebirds are very social and love companionship. Their natural behavior is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis roseicollis

Subspecies: Agapornis roseicollis roseicollis

There are over a dozen mutations of the Peach-fronted Lovebird. Some of them include yellow mutations such as the Lutino Lovebird and the cinnamon lovebirds; the pied mutations that began with a stunning contrast between the yellows and greens; blue mutations such as the Dutch Blue Lovebird and the Whitefaced Blue Lovebird; olive mutations; and from crossings of these has produced multiple color combinations to form many new varieties.

Distribution:    The Peach-faced Lovebird is native to southwest Africa in Nambia and southwest Angola. They inhabit dry areas with shrubs or trees bordering forests, usually near bodies of water.

There are two Peach-faced Lovebird subspecies, the first being

A. r. roseicollis which is thought to have been found in about 1817. The other A. r. catumbella was not discovered until 1955 and is distinguished from the first species by it’s brighter greens and more pronounced red coloring.

Description:    The Peach-fronted Lovebird is a very small member of the parrot family, but is greatly admired for it’s striking coloration. They have a general green plumage with more yellowish under parts. The forehead to behind the eyes, cheeks, throat, and upper breast are a rose-pink, being reddest on the head. The feathers of the rump and onto the upper tail are bright blue, and the tail also has occasional orange and black markings. The eye is dark brown, the beak is horn colored with a tinge of light green, and the legs are gray.

The young have grayish-green feathers in the plumage. The rose-pink in front is paler and they don’t have red on the forehead. The beak is often marked with some black. They acquire their adult plumage at about 4 months.

Size – Weight:    Though they are the largest of the lovebird species, the Peach-faced Lovebird will only get up to about 6″ – 7″ (16 – 18 cm) in length.

Care and feeding:
A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about.

In the wild the Peach-faced Lovebird eats seeds and berries as well as agricultural crops, especially maize and millets. As a pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets.

Social Behaviors:    In the wild they are seen in small flocks, and occasionally larger flocks when feeding in ripening crop fields.

A lovebird is a very social bird with it’s companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting.

Activities:    Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

Breeding/Reproduction:    The Peach-faced Lovebird is excellent for the beginning breeder. These birds will breed as either single pairs or in colonies, but they are much more prone to fighting in a colony setting so must be given plenty of space and more nest boxes than there are pairs of birds. In the wild these birds nest in crevices of cliffs or buildings, or take over the communal nests of weavers. When you provide them with a nest box, be sure to also provide lots of willow twigs, palm fronds, or other nesting materials as they will build a small nest of their own inside of the nest box. The female will carry the nesting materials between her back and rump feathers.

The hen will lay four to five eggs which are incubated for about 23 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 30 to 38 days but will still be dependent until about 43 days. When they become independent, remove the young to their own housing.

The Lutino Lovebird makes a great beginner bird as they are relatively hardy, easy to care for, and will readily breed. A hand-raised Lutino Lovebird is an incredibly affectionate and fun companion. As they are quite intelligent and aware, even an untamed lovebird will watch it’s caretaker with curiosity and readily interact. They are also very brave little birds, and like a child, much be supervised carefully when out of their cage to make sure they don’t get themselves into trouble.

The Lutino Lovebirds are very social and love companionship. Their natural behavior is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis roseicollis var.

Description:    The Lutino Lovebird, a particularly striking bird with an overall yellow coloring and a bright red face, is a mutation of the Peach-faced Lovebird. The lutino mutation is a sex-linked gene. It acts by removing removing all of the melanin, the dark pigment, from the bird while the pigments of yellow and red are unaffected.
There are two other sex-linked mutations which work to partially remove or dilute the melanin. They are called cinnamon, or sometimes ‘fallow’. The darker of the two is the American cinnamon and can be described as a light green. The other is the Australian cinnamon, which is a very light greenish-yellow.

Size – Weight:    The Lutino Lovebird will get up to about 6″ – 7″ (16 – 18 cm) in length.

Care and feeding:    A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about. Your pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets.

Social Behaviours:    A lovebird is a very social bird with it’s companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting.

Activities:    Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

Breeding/Reproduction:    The Lutino Lovebird is excellent for the beginning breeder. These birds will breed well in either colonies or in a single pair, and have the same behaviors as the Peach-faced Lovebird. When you provide them with a nest box, be sure to also provide lots of willow twigs, palm fronds, or other nesting materials as they will build a small nest of their own inside of the nest box. They will carry the nesting materials between their back and rump feathers.

The hen will lay four to five eggs which are incubated for about 23 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 30 to 38 days but will still be dependent until about 43 days. When they become independent, remove the young to their own housing.

This little bird will delight and amuse you with it’s playful and amusing antics. They are active intelligent little birds and make a wonderful companion and friend. An excellent beginners bird, the Fischer’s Lovebird is hardy, easy to care for, and a willing breeder.

Typical of all the lovebirds, the Fischer’s Lovebird is very social and loves companionship. Their natural behavior is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis personata fischeri There are a wide variety of attractive color mutations of the Fischer’s Lovebird, which include the dilute blue, dilute yellow, pied, black or dark eyed white, albino, lutino, and cinnamon.

Distribution:    The Fischer’s Lovebird is native to eastern Africa north of Tanzania and south and southeast of Lake Victoria. They inhabit isolated shrubs and clumps of trees surrounded by grassy plains. They were originally discovered in the late 1800′s, and were first bred in the United States in 1926.

Description:    The Fischer’s Lovebird is a bit smaller lovebird. They have a general green plumage that is more yellowish underneath. The forehead, cheeks, and throat are an orange-red and the rest of the head is a dull olive green. The neck and upper breast is a golden yellow. The tail has some yellow and black barring and pale blue feathers on the upper part. The eye is brown surrounded by a naked white eye ring. The beak is red and the legs are a pale gray. The young are duller especially on the head and they have black markings on the beak.

The Fischer’s Lovebird belongs to a group of lovebirds called the ‘eye-ring’ species. There are four eye-ring species, with the other three being the Masked Lovebird A. p. personata, Black-cheeked Lovebird A. p. nigrigenis, and the Nyasa Lovebird A. p. lilianae. This group can be identified by the obvious strong ring around their eyes.

These species are closely related and will interbred readily if kept together. It is strongly urged that you keep these species separate to maintain their natural forms, as breeding within each species itself produces the most beautiful color mutations.

Size – Weight:   The Fischer’s Lovebird is a bit smaller than the other lovebird species, only getting up to about 5 3/4″(14.5 cm) in length.

Care and feeding:    A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about.
In the wild the Fischer’s Lovebird eats seeds as well as agricultural crops, especially maize and millets. As a pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets. See About Lovebirds: Housing and About Lovebirds: Care and Feeding for more information.

Social Behaviours:    In the wild they are seen in small flocks, and occasionally larger flocks when feeding in ripening crop fields.

A lovebird is a very social bird with it’s companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting.

Activities:    Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

Breeding/Reproduction:    The Fischer’s Lovebird is excellent for the beginning breeder. These birds will breed as either single pairs or in colonies. In the wild these birds nest in the holes of trees, in crevices of buildings, or take over the nests of swifts. When you provide them with a nest box be sure to also provide lots of willow twigs, strips of bark, or other nesting materials.

The hen will lay four to six eggs which are incubated for about 23 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 3 to 3 /12 weeks but will still be dependent until about 4 weeks of age. When they become independent, remove the young to their own housing.

See About Lovebirds: Breeding/Reproduction for more information on breeding.

Potential Problems:    This bird has a shrill call though more often makes a high pitched twittering sound. Though not as loud as some parrots, it can be rather noisy for parts of the day.

The Dutch Blue Lovebirds are very social and love companionship. Their natural behavior is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis roseicollis var.

Description:
The Dutch Blue Lovebird is a mutation of the Peach-faced Lovebird. It is very similar to the Whitefaced Blue Lovebird as both these birds have a reduced amount of the red and yellow pigments in their feathers.

The Dutch Blue Lovebird, which originated in Holland in about 1963, can be distinguished from the Whitefaced Blue as it has a slightly creamy colored face and a solid orange band across the forehead. While the Whitefaced Blue Lovebird, originating in the early 1980′s, has a pure white face and only a faint (if any) orange tinge to it’s forehead. Both birds have greenish-blue in the general plumage and bright blue feathers on the rump and onto the upper part of the tail.

Another mutation that is very similar to the Dutch Blue Lovebird is the Seagreen Lovebird. It is half Dutch Blue and half Whitefaced Blue and has essentially the same head and facial coloration as the Dutch Blue, but has a more greenish general plumage.

Size – Weight:
The Dutch Blue Lovebird will get up to about 6″ – 7″ (16 – 18 cm) in length.

Care and feeding:
A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about. Your pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets.

Social Behaviors:
A lovebird is a very social bird with it’s companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting.

Activities:
Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

Breeding/Reproduction:
The Dutch Blue Lovebird is excellent for the beginning breeder. These birds will breed well in either colonies or in a single pair, and have the same behaviors as the Peach-faced Lovebird. When you provide them with a nest box, be sure to also provide lots of willow twigs, palm fronds, or other nesting materials as they will build a small nest of their own inside of the nest box. They will carry the nesting materials between their back and rump feathers.

The hen will lay four to five eggs which are incubated for about 23 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 30 to 38 days but will still be dependent until about 43 days. When they become independent, remove the young to their own housing.

Friendly and easy to care for, the Blue Masked Lovebird will make a delightful and enjoyable addition to any household. They are relatively hardy and are easy to breed, making them every bit as good a pet as the Peach-faced Lovebird. Some even suggest that they may be a bit calmer, though others say they are just as mischievous.

Typical of all the lovebirds, the Blue Masked Lovebird is very social and loves companionship. Their natural behaviour is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis personata personata var.

Description:    The Blue Masked Lovebird is the best known color mutation of the Masked Lovebird, and this variety occurs naturally in the wild as well as in captivity. It is very attractive with a black head, blue body, and a white collar around the neck and on the upper breast.
All the Masked Lovebird mutations have a black ‘mask’ and their names refer to their body coloring, in this case ‘blue’. Other color mutations include the Green Masked Lovebird which is also very common, and other more uncommon varieties such as the medium blue (cobalt) and the dark blue (slate).

Size – Weight:    The Blue Masked Lovebird will get up to about 6″ (14.5 – 15. 5 cm) in length.

Care and feeding:    A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about. Your pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets.

See About Lovebirds: Housing and About Lovebirds: Care and Feeding for more information.

Social Behaviors:    A lovebird is a very social bird with it’s companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting.

Activities:    Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

Breeding/Reproduction:    The Blue Masked Lovebird is excellent for the beginning breeder. These birds will breed as either single pairs or in colonies, and have the same behaviors as the Masked Lovebird. When you provide them with a nest box be sure to also provide lots of willow twigs, strips of bark, or other nesting materials.

The hen will lay three to four eggs which are incubated for about 21 to 23 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 44 to 45 days. When they become independent, remove the young to their own housing.

This small parrot is an excellent beginners bird being relatively hardy, easy to care for, a willing breeder, and reasonably priced. It is a most playful, intelligent, and amusing little companion.

The Masked Lovebird is very social and loves companionship. Their natural behavior is to live closely with a companion so are often kept with another lovebird. Though they make a very fine and affectionate pet when hand-raised, they will need a lot of attention if kept singly. Most are kept in pairs to satisfy their considerable need for constant companionship, mutual preening, and socialization.

Scientific Name: Agapornis personata personata    There are a some popular color mutations of the Masked Lovebird, and while this bird is described by its face, the ‘mask’, the mutations are described by their body color. The most common varieties are the Blue Masked Lovebird and the Green Masked Lovebird; and then there are the more uncommon varieties such as the medium blue (cobalt) and the dark blue (slate).

Distribution:
   The Masked Lovebird is native to northeastern Tanzania in Africa. They inhabit dry areas with shrubs or trees bordering forests, usually near bodies of water. They were originally discovered in the late 1800′s but were not imported until the 1920′s.

Description:
   The Masked Lovebird is a very small member of the parrot family. They have a general green plumage. The head is brownish-black with a yellow collar around the neck. The throat and upper breast is also yellow, though with a reddish-orange cast. The feathers of the rump and onto the upper tail are bluish, and the tail also has occasional orange and black markings. The eye is dark brown surrounded by a naked white eye ring. The beak is red and the legs are gray. The females in this species are slightly larger than the males. The young are duller especially on the head and they have black markings on the beak.
The Masked Lovebird belongs to a group of lovebirds called the ‘eye-ring’ species. There are four eye-ring species, with the other three being the Fischer’s Lovebird A. p. fischeri, Black-cheeked Lovebird A. p. nigrigenis, and the Nyasa Lovebird A. p. lilianae. This group can be identified by the obvious strong ring around their eyes. They are closely related and will interbred readily if kept together, even though they are different species. It is strongly urged that you keep these species separate to maintain their natural forms, as breeding within each species itself produces the most beautiful color mutations.

Size – Weight:
The Masked Lovebird will get up to about 6″ (14.5 – 15. 5 cm) in length.

Care and feeding:
A roomy cage is required as lovebirds are very active. If you have a tame pet that is kept in a small cage, it needs to be let out for extended periods to fly about.
In the wild the Masked Lovebird eats seeds as well as agricultural crops, especially maize and millets. As a pet they will enjoy a variety of seeds, fruits, vegetables, and commercial pellets.
Social Behaviors:
In the wild they are seen in small flocks, and occasionally larger flocks when feeding in ripening crop fields.
A lovebird is a very social bird with it’s companion, and it is generally thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs rather than singly. They can, however, be aggressive towards other birds in an aviary setting.

Activities:    Loves to fly, climb, and play. Provide lots of room and lots of toys.

The masked lovebirds are an excellent choice for the beginning breeder. These birds will breed as either single pairs or in colonies. In the wild these birds nest in the holes of trees, in crevices of buildings, or take over the nests of swifts. When you provide them with a nest box be sure to also provide lots of willow twigs, strips of bark, or other nesting materials.
The hen will lay three to four eggs which are incubated for about 21 to 23 days. The young fledge (leave the nest) in about 44 to 45 days. When they become independent, remove the young to their own housing.

Breeding/Reproduction    One of the pleasures of lovebirds is that they are easy to breed. For breeding lovebirds, each pair of birds will need 2 nest boxes for sleeping and nesting. These boxes need to be of the same type and size, and placed at the same height on the same wall.

• Breeding Lovebirds
  Lovebirds will breed willingly as single pairs and some species of lovebirds can be bred in a colony setting. Especially suited to a colony are the white eye-ring group of lovebirds.
• Breeding Age for Lovebirds
  Lovebirds need to be at least 10 months old, though 12 to 13 months is better. Also birds that are 5 to 6 years or older should be retired from breeding.
• Sexing Lovebirds
  Some visual characteristics that may aid in determining sex are that the female is heavier bodied than the male and will sit more broadly with legs apart, while the males sit more upright. A females tail will appear more square while a males will appear more rounded. When observing the nesting behavior, the female will do most of the nest building work.
  An anal inspection can be done but takes experience in sexing these birds to make a fair determination. Basically there are two bones called the ossa pubes on the ventral side of the pelvis and the female will be spread wider apart than the male.

  The sexing of lovebirds falls into three categories:

• Dimorphic Types
  The first group are different in their outward appearance and can be classified as dimorphic.
  This first group consists of:
  Abyssinian Lovebird Agapornis toranta
  Madagascar Lovebird Agapornis cana
  Red-faced Lovebird Agapornis pullaria
• Intermediate Types
  The second or intermediate group are harder to differentiate by appearance.
  This group consists of:
  Peach-faced Lovebirds Agapornis reseicollis
  Black-collared Lovebird Agapornis swinderniana
• Monomorphic Types
  In the third group, the white eye-ring group, there are no definite differences that can be seen. The sexing of the white eye-ring group must be determined by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, which can be done by many veterinarians or by a DNA testing, usually a blood sample or a few plucked feathers sent to be diagnosed in a lab.
  In the white eye-ring group are the:
  Masked Lovebirds Agapornis personata personata
  Fischer’s Lovebirds Agapornis personata fisheri
  Nyasa Lovebird Agapornis personata lilianae
  Black-cheeked Lovebird Agapornis personata nigrigenis.
• Breeding Environment
  If you are breeding lovebirds in a colony setting, it is very important to provide many more nest boxes than their are pairs of birds to minimize fighting. The nest boxes should all be the same and mounted at the same height of the enclosure. Also, be diligent in watching for fighting as it can lead to death.
  A nest box for a lovebird is 8″ x 8″ x 8″ (20 x 20 x 20 cm) or 10″ x 6″ x 6″ (25 x 15 x 15 cm).
• Egg Laying and Hatchlings
  The female will lay about 5 eggs, though the clutch could be as few as 3 eggs or as many as 8 eggs. The incubation period is 22 – 25 days, with 75% to 80% of the eggs hatching. The hen will start to brood after the second egg is hatched. Often the male will join the hen in the nest. The chicks will begin to leave the nest in about 38 – 50 days and will be independent about 2 weeks after leaving the nest.

Potential Problems    Lovebird ailments, signs of illness to be aware of, include if a bird seems withdrawn, its feathers are ruffled and the plumage is dull, it sits with its eyes closed, watery or dull eyes, runny nose, it sleeps a lot, it looses interest in its environment, and it stays at its feed cup. The droppings may change color and be loose (if healthy they are grayish white and not to thin). A couple other lovebird ailments to watch for are a lot of tail bobbing, dropping off its perch, odd breathing, sneezing, and excessive scratching.
Some of the common lovebird ailments, illnesses your lovebirds could contract, are injuries from fighting, Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease, Polyoma Virus Infection, yeast infections (Candidiasis), Avian Pox Virus Infection, bacterial infections, internal parasites, mites, ticks, egg binding, intestinal influenza, coccidiosis, respiratory ailments, and diarrhea. An ailing parrot should be taken to a avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.

Availability    The most available types of lovebirds for sale are the Peach-faced Lovebird, the Masked Lovebird, and the Fischer’s Lovebirds. There are many beautiful lovebird mutations developed from these three groups of birds that are also readily available. Many other species of lovebird are available but not be as readily found. Lovebirds are also fairly inexpensive little parrots.

Health Requirements:

To breed sucessfully, each breeding Lovebird should be healthy, normal, and between one and five years of age.

Nesting Requirements:

Lovebirds need a nest box in which to lay their eggs. The proper size for a Lovebird is about 12″x12″x12″, with an entrance hole of about 3 inches in diameter. Proper nesting material, such as shredded paper, should also be provided.

Nutritional Requirements:

Like all hookbills, Lovebirds should be fed a varied diet consisting of seeds, pellets, and fresh fruits and vegetables. Breeding age hens should be placed on a calcium supplement to counteract the nutrients that they lose during egg-laying.

Egg Laying:

Female Lovebirds will lay their eggs between 5 – 12 days after mating. Many will lay an egg every other day until they have all been laid. Each clutch usually contains between 3 and 7 eggs.

Incubation Time:

On average, Lovebirds incubate their eggs for about 23 days. This can vary by a couple of days in either direction. When attempting to calculate future hatch dates, always count forward from the day that you notice the hen begin to sit on the eggs. Sometimes they won’t sit until all the eggs of a clutch have been laid, and they all need equal incubation time!

Hatchling Care and Weaning:

Most breeders will allow the hen to feed the babies from hatching to the age of 2 or 3 weeks. From there, they will pull the babies out of the nest and place them in a brooder for handfeeding. Most Lovebirds need to be handfed until they are between 6 and 8 weeks old, when you can begin to wean them onto millet, soft pellets, and fresh fruits and vegetables.

Question: Should you Breed your Pet Bird?

Answer: Many pet bird owners, at least once or twice, entertain ideas of allowing their pets to have a family. While having a nest full of adorable chirping babies may seem like a great idea at times, owners should know what they’re getting into when they choose to breed their birds, and should take several key issues into consideration before rushing out to buy their bird a mate.

Being a successful bird breeder requires four key components:

• Time
• Money
• Knowledge
• Dedication

If you can’t provide all of that and more, then it’s best to refrain from breeding. Do you have money set aside to use in case of an emergency? Do you know what to do if your hen becomes egg bound? Can you hand feed a tiny baby bird with a syringe, on a schedule, without giving him crop burn or worse? When you choose to breed birds, you are essentially taking responsibility for the lives of the hen and any potential babies. If all four of those key breeding components aren’t in place, the result can be deadly.

A big issue to take into consideration is your relationship with your pet bird. Many times a bird who takes a mate becomes less interested in his “human flock”. Are you willing to risk giving up your bond with your bird to raise a clutch of babies? Many bird owners find that for them, the answer is a resounding NO.

Another issue to ponder is whether or not you have the space to accommodate a breeding operation. Supplies you will need include nest boxes, extra cages, an incubator and a brooder, just to name a few. If you don’t have the room to house these items, breeding is pretty much out of the question.

While just these points may seem overwhelming, the truth is that we haven’t even scratched the surface of everything that it takes to be a good bird breeder. For this reason, most bird owners decide that it’s best to leave breeding to the professionals and just enjoy their pet’s companionship.

However, if you think you have what it takes to be a breeder, and are willing to make the necessary sacrifices, the best thing to do is talk your decision over with your avian vet before beginning the process. He or she will be able to offer valuable advice, and will make sure that your birds are in proper breeding condition.

Question: What Is Egg Binding?

Answer: The terms “egg bound” and “egg binding” refer to a condition in which a female bird has trouble laying an egg. Egg binding can be caused by several factors including malnutrition, an inadequate environment, lack of exercise, and genetic predisposition.

While a bird of any species can be affected, there are a few types of birds that seems to be prone to egg binding, most notably Cockatiels, Parakeets (Budgies), and Lovebirds.

Egg binding is a serious problem that requires swift medical attention. Left untreated, an egg bound hen can suffer nerve damage, shock, paralysis, and even death.

Common symptoms of egg binding include rapid breathing, swelling, constipation, fluffed up feathers, and straining. Egg bound hens may also be unable to perch, and may take to sitting in the bottom of their cages.

If you notice your bird exhibit any of these signs, you should contact your avian veterinarian immediately for an exam. As with other avian illnesses, time is of the essence. The quicker that an egg bound bird receives medical attention, the better her chances of recovery and survival.

Your Bird Laid an Egg. Will it Hatch?

I found an egg in my bird’s cage. Why did she lay it, what should I do with it, and is it going to hatch?

Answer: If you have a female bird, nature requires her to lay an egg every now and then. In fact, if breeding age hens don’t lay eggs regularly, they are at risk for egg binding, a potentially fatal health condition.

Unless the hen has been exposed to a male bird in the time leading up to when the eggs were laid, the egg will not be fertile. In this case, most bird owners remove the egg from the cage and throw it away, and most of the time the hens go back to their normal routines.

If there is a chance that the egg is fertile, and you want to raise the baby, you should candle the egg to see if it was indeed fertilized. If it was, you will need to either give it back to the mother for incubation or place it into an incubator if the hen will not sit on it.

Should one be concerned about what his/her Lovebird eats?
Nutrition is the most commonly neglected element of owning a pet bird. Too often owners assume they are feeding a proper diet to their Lovebird when in fact they are not. Poor nutrition is a common source of many health problems.

It is important to continually strive to improve your bird’s diet. This will involve reading, carefully interpreting and integrating the information along with a certain degree of ‘common sense’. Above all, discuss nutrition with your veterinarian.

It is not enough to feed a Lovebird just to keep it alive. Proper nutrition will help it thrive and flourish. Your bird’s entire health will depend on how well it is fed.

What does your Lovebird naturally eat?
Lovebirds eat a variety of seeds, fruits, berries and vegetation such as leaf buds. Some species have been known to attack farmers’ crops and are recognized as pests in their natural environment. A well balanced and varied diet must be maintained at all times.

So, what should you feed your Lovebird?

Seeds are available everywhere, remain fresh when stored properly and are very convenient to feed. Although Lovebirds do eat seeds, they would naturally consume a far greater variety of seed types in the wild as different plants come into season than they do in captivity. An all-seed diet tends to be high in fat and provides an imbalanced source of nutrients that will lead to ill health and potentially shorten the life expectancy of your Lovebird.

Commercial seed mixes may contain from 4 – 10 different kinds of seeds and nuts. The problem that exists when offering a large container of seed to a Lovebird, is that the bird proceeds to selectively eat 1 or 2 of its ‘favourite’ types of seed only. Millet and sunflower seeds are often chosen preferentially. This, of course, leads to further malnutrition. If a smaller amount of a good quality seed mix is offered then it is likely the bird will eat a greater variety of seed. Offer less and they will eat better.

How much seed do we offer?
As a guideline, most Lovebirds can be maintained on 1 – 1.5 level ‘measure’ teaspoons of seed per bird, per day in a shallow dish depending on the size of the bird. If there is more than one Lovebird in the cage, separate dishes should be used for each bird to ensure those birds at the bottom of the ‘pecking order’ have a chance to eat. This may not be possible in a flock situation.

Any seeds left over in the dish at the end of the day could suggest that too many seeds were offered originally. Seeds should only be a small part of a balanced diet.

How do one convert its bird to a pelleted diet?
Converting seed-eating birds (‘seed-aholics’) onto a formulated diet is not always easy. Being a new item in the cage, pellets are not identified immediately as food. Slowly wean the bird off seeds over a period of weeks while having pellets constantly available in a separate dish. Some people mix the pellets in a reduced amount of seed which may aid its acceptance in the cage but be aware that the bird will not accidentally eat a pellet.

It may take days, weeks or months to modify a bird’s diet. NEVER withdraw seeds entirely without first being certain the bird is eating the formulated foods plus some fruits and vegetables. Birds are stubborn, but can be trained. Remember, you train the bird, do not let it train you.

This can be a stressful time for you and your Lovebird. Consult your veterinarian if encountering any problems with this adaptation or the health of the bird.

Fruits and Vegetables
As a general rule regarding food offered to a bird, any wholesome, nutritious food that you and your family eat, your bird can eat. Fruits, vegetables and greens should account for approximately 20 – 25% of the diet. Pale vegetables, with a high water composition (i.e. Iceberg or Head lettuce, celery) offer very little nutritional value. Avocado is reported to be potentially toxic.

Fruits and vegetables must be washed thoroughly to remove chemicals and cut into manageable pieces depending on the size of the bird. It is not necessary to take the skin off. They should be offered in a separate dish.

Here is a tip to help get your bird to eat fruits and vegetables. Treat your bird like a small child; offer a large variety of food items daily and never stop trying.

Water
Fresh clean water must be available at all times. Dishes must be cleaned thoroughly every day, especially the tube or gravity water containers.

Will your bird have any different needs throughout its life?
Birds that are extremely young, stressed, injured, laying eggs or raising young may have certain special requirements. Approach Hindustan Animal Feeds for its lifecycle feed range, which will be the best solution for all and one cause.

Do you need to use a vitamin-mineral mixture?
If your bird is on a great diet, does it need extra vitamins, minerals or amino-acids? There is much written about supplementation. The powdered supplements are often regarded as more stable. Mix these products with water or preferably apply directly onto moist food. Placing these powders on seeds or dried foods is of little value since it will ultimately end up on the bottom of the food dish.

One opinion suggests that a bird eating 75 – 80% of its diet in the form of pelleted or formulated food may not need supplements. Specific vitamins or minerals may be more important at various times during a bird’s life (e.g. egg laying – requires calcium supplementation). Your veterinarian can help you assess your bird’s diet and it’s particular needs.

Does my bird need gravel or grit?
In the wild, a bird would naturally consume small stones, gravel or grit whenever it wishes to. This is to aid in the mechanical digestion of seeds and nuts. Controversy exists over its need in captivity especially with formulated diets. Offering a small amount in a separate dish will allow the bird to decide if it needs or wants it.

Never place gravel on the bottom of the cage as the bird is then forced to eat it out of its ‘toilet’, the dirtiest part of the cage. Gravel with charcoal in it is reported to absorb certain vitamins from the digestive tract making them unavailable to the bird. White oyster shell may be part of some gravel mixes. Some sick birds will eat inappropriate amounts of grit. If irregular or excessive consumption is witnessed, consult your veterinarian.

Breeding Lovebirds:
Lovebirds will breed willingly as single pairs and some species of lovebirds can be bred in a colony setting. Especially suited to a colony are the white eye-ring group of lovebirds.

Sexing Lovebirds:
Some visual characteristics that may aid in determining sex are that the female is heavier bodied than the male and will sit more broadly with legs apart, while the males sit more upright. A females tail will appear more square while a males will appear more rounded. When observing the nesting behavior, the female will do most of the nest building work.
An anal inspection can be done but takes experience in sexing these birds to make a fair determination. Basically there are two bones called the ossa pubes on the ventral side of the pelvis and the female will be spread wider apart than the male.

Breeding Environment:
If you are breeding lovebirds in a colony setting, it is very important to provide many more nest boxes than their are pairs of birds to minimize fighting. The nest boxes should all be the same and mounted at the same height of the enclosure. Also, be diligent in watching for fighting as it can lead to death.
A nest box for a lovebird is 8″ x 8″ x 8″ (20 x 20 x 20 cm) or 10″ x 6″ x 6″ (25 x 15 x 15 cm).

Egg Laying and Hatchlings:
The female will lay about 5 eggs, though the clutch could be as few as 3 eggs or as many as 8 eggs. The incubation period is 22 – 25 days, with 75% to 80% of the eggs hatching. The hen will start to brood after the second egg is hatched. Often the male will join the hen in the nest. The chicks will begin to leave the nest in about 38 – 50 days and will be independent about 2 weeks after leaving the nest.