Feeding Ducks

Ducks are raised as pets on small ponds or lakes, for release in hunting preserves or conservation areas, and for eating purposes. The mallard is the most popular duck breed in the United States. Domestic ducks, such as the White Pekin and the Muscovy, are also popular. The commercial duck industry in the United states relies primarily on the White Pekin for meat production.

A combination of good nutrition and proper management are essential for raising healthy ducks. Maximum efficiency for growth and reproduction can be obtained by using commercially prepared diets. Because pet ducks are generally raised on open ponds or lakes, they are subject to predation. Predators that can damage your duck flock include: turtles, owl, hawks, raccoons, skunks, opossums, cats, and dogs. If possible, your ducks should be maintained in an enclosure that prevents predator access. If predation becomes a problem, recognition of the predator is imperative. Contact the state Conservation Department or Wildlife Resource Commission on the methods and legalities of removing predators from your property.

Feed Quality

Good commercially prepared duck feed, is available from most local feed stores. Some large duck operations may find mixing the complete feed on the farm to be less expensive than purchasing it from a commercial source. Regardless of whether feed is purchased or mixed on the farm, it must be stored away from rodents and insects in a clean, dry place to prevent contamination and mold growth. A pair of rats can eat or contaminate over 100 lbs of feed in a year. Use the feed within 3 weeks of the manufacturer’s date and sooner during hot, humid weather to prevent loss of vitamins and mold formation. Stale or bad-smelling feed is evidence of spoilage and possible mold contamination. Never use feed that is moldy because some molds produce toxins which could cause serious health problems or poor growth. Ducks are extremely sensitive to mold toxins. For example, ducks are sensitive to as little as 30 of ppb aflatoxin. Mold toxins can cause damage to the ducks’ digestive organs, liver, kidneys, muscles, and plumage, and can also reduce growth and/or reproductive performance.

The quality of feed ingredients is also very important. Do not use grains that are contaminated with molds, weed seeds, or dirt. Avoid using old vitamin/mineral packs because they lose their effectiveness with time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight or heat.

Feeders and Waterers

Growing ducks should be allowed free access to feed and water at all times. Proper feeder and waterer height, maintenance and sanitation are essential for achieving uniform flock growth and health. Small feeders should be used until the ducklings are 2 weeks of age. Larger feed hoppers should be used for older ducks. The feeder pan height should be at a level even with the back of the average duck. Waterer pan height should be even with the lower neck area of the average duck and water nipples should be adjusted at a slightly higher level. Feeders and waterers that are too low result in excessive wastage. Those that are too high restrict feed and water access to the smallest ducks and thus increase size variation in the flock.

Waterers and feeders must be kept as clean as possible at all times. Shelter feeders from the sun, wind, rain, and snow to minimize feed spoilage. Feed hoppers that are used outdoors should have lids that fit securely. If feed hoppers are placed within a building or pen and water supplies are placed outside, the hoppers should be closed overnight to prevent the ducks from choking on dry feed. Water may be supplied in hand-filled water fountains or by automatic waterers. To prevent wet litter, place the water supply above wire flooring or on a screened drain when in confinement. Waterers should be cleaned and sanitized with a commercial non-toxic disinfectant at least 3 times a week. Avoid pouring the rinse water on the litter, rather pour it into a bucket and remove it from the pen to help maintain a dry, clean environment for the ducks. Check daily to see that the waterers and feeders are working properly and not leaking or spilling.

Because young ducklings grow rapidly, they should have adequate floor, feeder, and waterer space. For the first three weeks, allow 2 square foot of space per duckling on wire and 1 square foot per duckling on litter. If confinement rearing is practiced, increase the floor space to 2.5 square feet per duckling through 7 weeks of age. Ducks should be given at least 1.5 linear inches of feeder space and 0.5 linear inches of waterer space per duckling at all times. Larger ducks such as the Muscovy may require some additional space.

Ducks are waterfowl, so they are instinctively attracted to water. This characteristic can cause a serious wet litter problem if the waterer is not designed properly or maintained at a proper height. If ducks are raised in confinement and subsequently released to a pond, a water bath is helpful for ducks to preen an keep their plumage properly oiled. This will help keep their feathers in good condition and give them the ability to swim in a pond.

Small Flock Ducks

Feed that is especially prepared for ducks is ideal. Beware of cheap rations that contain a lot of by-product ingredients because they may cost you money in the form of decreased body weight gain, poor feathering, reduced egg production, and hatchability, or other problems. A quality feed from a reputable dealer is usually the most profitable feed in the long run. If availability or the cost of duck feed is a major limitation, chicken feed could be used as an alternative. A 23% protein chick starter could be used for the first 2 weeks, followed by a 20% protein broiler grower diet. If available, a broiler finisher diet containing 18% protein can also be used. Be cautious, however, because broiler chicken feed may contain feed medications that do not have the Food and Drug Administration’s approval for ducks.